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MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment

Views: 2733


Don

#67360

MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment | 26 September, 2012

I had this problem at another plant with the UP 2000....When the machine resets, The left and right side of the conveyor misaligns, causing the conveyor to be tight on the loading end and boards falling out of the unloading end. or vise versa...the techs had a trick to come and align this problem..but they never showed us (operators)how to do it...now IM the "tech" (as well as other titles) at this company...this machine (same model) is having the same problem...any fix? i have inspected the belt..missing NO teeth...Im at a loss and its a daily thing...any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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#67364

MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment | 26 September, 2012

You have to loosen the tension on both sides of the drive belt and skip a tooth or two until the cenveyor is parrallel. You'll have to grip the belt tight on one of the drive gears then force the other gear to rotate inside the belt on the other end to skip a tooth. Check for parallel and repeat as needed. Order a new width drive belt and replace the old one as soon as you can. Even though the belt looks good it gets worn + stretched and will cause this parallelism problem.

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Don

#67454

MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment | 8 October, 2012

Yeah thanks swag, I do that ridiculous routine about every morning....im over it.... so I ordered a new belt..4 weeks lead time by the way from speedline.

AND,...I took the tiny belt tensioners on each side and tightened both pretty tight and low and behold....no more problems...at all!! So thanks...because if it wasnt for you mentioning the tensioners.. and me crawling deep inside the machine. I wouldnt have even known they were back there.

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#67460

MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment | 9 October, 2012

Awesome! Glad to help.

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#67465

MPM UP 2000 conveyor misalignment | 9 October, 2012

Actually the correct way to fix this is to carefully remove the belt on the rear of the machine that connects the left and right rail lead screws together. Square the rails then carefully re-install the belt *without turning either of the lead screws independent of each other* Basically what you have to do is fully put the belt on one pulley and roll it on the other, that way they both turn the same amount. There should be no forcing. The only thing that requires some elbow grease is rolling the belt back on.

This procedure is a pain in the ass because of where the belt and pulleys are, but it can be done.

One more very important step is to make sure you run the rail calibration procedure. If you omit this step then none of your programmed rail widths will be correct.

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